Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Bali Update #5

Belongan lineup first thing in the AM.

Swell picked back up a few days ago. I spent the first day surfing Belongan and Dreamland with Eric and Made (Maw-day). Belongan wasn't barreling, but it was alot bigger, and just as fast as the first time I surfed there. Even though it was pretty crowded I was able to get into a few set waves. Dreamland was fun, but nothing special. I made a bunch of the local kids laugh by pulling into a closeout barrel breaking onto the sand. I still have sand in my hair and ears...at least it's not coral.

Superman is Dead @ Rip Curl Music Fest.

That night we went down to the Rip Curl WQS 6 star Surf contest and Music Fest. Eric's friends band- 'Superman is Dead', was one of the headliners for the final night and they got us backstage passes. My camera is bigger than everyone elses so I got to walk around the stage freely and take pics while the guys hung out and drank beer. I met some crazy old dude who felt it necessary to tell me stories of how he used to do mounds of coke with Buttons Kaluhiokalani and beat guys up on the North Shore.

Kuta is a fucking mess. It's like South Beach, but with really dangerous sidewalks, a million scooters, and drunk Aussies. I've heard Eric call it Kuta-fornia. This chick we met had a Pheonix tattooed on her back and our Indo friend, Made, asked me why she had a chicken on her back. I told him it was cause she's Australian.


Next day we took a boat to an island called Lembongan to surf Shipwrecks, Razors, Lacerations, and Playland. The names are all very appropriate. The swell had backed off some from yesterday, but that was a good thing. Razors, and Lacerations, both break in a few feet of water over really nasty reef covered in rebar that fishermen use to rig nets up to. At Razors a macking set rolled through and shoved all of us inside. I was the furthest out and still took a couple waves on the head while Ryan wasn't as lucky and ended up getting stuck on the reef for a few more sets. Eventhough it wasn't the safest spot it was hands down the most beautiful water I've ever been in. Playland was gay. We even made it back to Canggu for a sundown surf.

Yesterday I didn't surf. Canggu was still barreling pretty good and I wasn't feeling like taking a beating so I jumped on my scooter and drove up into mountains to check out a temple. It was about 2 hours there and another 3 to get back. I made it a point take different roads than I've been on so I could get lost and find my way home. It was a really fun trip and I think I may head up to the volcano tomorrow after my morning surf.

Today I surfed for about 4 hours. Swell has dropped again and everywhere has mellowed out. I paddled out to a spot called 'Old Mans' and shared waves with about 10 guys for an hour before everyone went in leaving me there with one other guy. I think I logged more wave time in the last session than I have on my whole trip. It's a pretty mellow reef break about shoulder high and peeling for a good 150 yards. My arms are noodles.

Zummies guys are gone now. They both got Bali themed tattoos yesterday before getting on a plane. Yep, they got tattoos while they were here because the place just blew their mind. Niether of them had ever left the US before this trip. The younger guy also got his hair braided into corn rows like all the trashy tourists do down in Kuta. I refused to sit next to the guy in public.

I've read the news twice since I've been here. It feels so good not to pay attention to the election, although I have had a few questions about it from the locals. Most think BO is Muslim and they seemed surprised we're ok with the idea of an African American president. I haven't met a single person from another country that isn't keeping their fingers crossed for BO. I wish their vote was taken into consideration. While I'm on the topic of politics...why the Fuck is Palin still in the news? I was hoping she would been forgoten about by the time I got back. Is half of the US really that dumb that they feel they need to listen to her? Just the fact that her 15 minutes has lasted this long makes me really scared for the election.

1 comment:

alex said...

Don't worry bout Palin holmz, I'm a white male AKA I get as many votes as I want. Barackin the vote times a hundred etc...

Sick pics to finally go with these stories! Too bad I don't believe a coral reef with rebar sticking out of it comeon blud comeon