Thursday, December 20, 2007

Home at last

Florida surfing, Gulf coast surfing
A week of perfect Florida weather...paying for it now...back to the rain, wind, and cold. Also back to the 16" of fresh up in the pass, surf on the coast, my own bed, and Jackie.

I was wrong...actually some surf back home while I was there- see here. Should have kept that board at my Mom's house. Actually tried to rent one for the day, but all the shop had was 9ft soft tops...rather sit it out and take a few pics. Local surf shop dood actually questioned if there was "surf up there?" when I told him I live in WA. I mentioned to him the rumors of guys surfing along the 200 miles of Pacific coastline, but most the surfing was done in wave pools.

Florida surfing, Gulf coast surfing
Unfortunately no surfing, but actually took up some sea kayaking while I was there. Mom's into it for the exercise and dragged me along. Had a really good time, and workout, cruising the intercoastal waterways. Lots of fun, but strictly flat water activity for me.

Looking forward to getting up to the pass in the next few days. Check the weather at Drex's site before you go up - weather for bro's.

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Under Contruction

Heading to Florida tonight. No chance of surf while I'm there. I wish I could say I got my fill this past weekend...I can't remember the last time I thought I was surfed out.

Past weekend- 2 trips to the coast, one a bust, and the other was pretty fun. Sunday morning surfed with about 25 other doods. Plenty of hollow waves to be had for long as you don't mind pulling into closeouts, ending up in the sand, and getting dropped in on. It's all part of the fun.

After the tide switched, and our hands going numb, we decided to check the Groins hoping the tide had dropped enough. Still too full, but we hung out long enough to watch some guy get pushed into the rocks. He eventually threw his board over a log onto the rocks after a few unsuccessful attempts to climb over. Yeah, tossed his board onto rocks. Lucky he didn't snap an ankle too.

Friday, December 7, 2007

Destination - North Shore

North Shore...Here I come!!! I have 5 days to make a name for myself at what is considered surfings ultimate proving grounds and leave a lasting impression on the surf elite who dedicate a lifetime to the 7 mile stretch of sand. Some where in those 5 days I'm also going to have to find time to squeeze in some hooker ass slappin' and cheap beer drinkin' to celebrate the last days of Clem's bachelorhood.

The North Shore is not really high up there on my list of surf trip's really outa my league. Thankfully I'll be there with a couple of guys who either live there, or grew up there, to show us some aloha. It's also going to be in March- tail end of the surfing season when the pro circus has long been cleared out.

I've already started my training regiment of running with small boulders on the bottom of the local YMCA pool. oAnd here is the rest of it.

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Movie Night!!

Hurricane conditions and the Cape E buoy was reading 34ft @ 17 seconds...I'm going to sit this swell out. Anyways if I was to head out I wouldn't have cell or email access because virtually all the coastal cities don't have power;) Instead I stayed home to watch 'Second Thoughts' the Timmy Turner movie about going 'feral' on an empty indo island. Amazing waves, good surfing, really cool barrel shots, interesting story, but who the hell let this dude (Timmy) narrate the thing. I seriously feel more dumber after the flick. Next time I'm watching with the sound off.

Just pulled the trigger on tickets to visit the folks in Florida. I'm already excited about the sunshine. I leave in about 10 days.

Sunday, December 2, 2007


Can't say the surf was anywhere near spectacular on Saturday, it was freakin' cold, and the drive home through the snow extends my streak of crappy surf sessions. Recently is seems like I've been a day, even hours, late for classic fall surf. All I need is one good day and the past few weeks will be forgotten.

Saturday night went to check out the DOC movie premier put together by the guys at OneShotProductions. This one would have totally fallen off the radar if it wasn't for Drex, Clem, and JR, having a bunch of footage in it. I guess it's these guys 3 or 4th movie. I've seen one other flick and I can safely say the production is really getting better. It's awesome to see some older dudes putting this much effort into a project that doesn't involve any hotshit pro riders.

After an exhausting day of surf tripin', napping, and snowbro movie, the only way I could imagine finishing it off was by consuming massive amounts of jager, cheap tequelia, and Mickey's Big Mouths. I now own 1/2 of a pair of gloves. Let me know if you find the missing one - a righthand black XL Burton fleece glove.