Getting here wasn’t worth talking about, just 3 flights for a total of 26 hours. I think I slept for about 4 of them.
Once I landed Erich pretty much had everything covered for me; directions to the house with a number for the driver to call when we got lost, a surfboard, and scooter rental already lined up. He also put me in touch with an old friend Franklin, who was driving out to Uluwatu the next morning. We had a meal down at Echo beach and that was about it for my first day.
Woke up at 5:15 to catch a taxi so I could meet up with Franklin and Simon and catch a ride out to the Bukit and Uluwatu. They were stoked because the swell was calling for 6 to 8ft (Hawaiian). I was scared I might have to sit it out, but luckily it was small than expected. Smaller than what they expected was still some of the largest surf I ever paddled out into. It’s set up pretty much like Salidtia, but on a much grander scale. It was no problem making it out and once there I just hung out on the shoulder to watch for awhile. It was like sitting on a second story balcony and watching guys surf on the sidewalk below. I never caught any waves on the main peak but opted for down the line a little. Catching waves was a lot easier than I ever imagined. It’s like a machine so once you’re in the right position you pretty much just take a few strokes and you’re in. I wasn’t taking off deep so I would get to my feet and have a sec or two before the wave would turn into a wall a few feet overhead and then start to pitch. I only caught 3 or 4 waves and didn’t make a single turn. I pretty much just raced down the line to make each section. I never bounced off the reef so I would consider it a successful mission.
After surfing Franklin dropped me off at the Spacecraft office. I was introduced to Britt, and within 5 minutes of hopping on the back of her scooter to catch a ride home, I decided I was going to tag along with her to Ubud to meet some friends. Ubud is smaller town inland that’s known as being artsy and good food. We hung out there for a a night walking around eating and drinking. Britt’s friend Katie designs bras which totally fascinated me, and her other friend Steve just retired from Subpop as their Promotions director. Both really cool folks.
It ends up that Britt knows Clem and Drex. She designs clothes for OR, has been the announcer for the Baker banked Slolom for something like 8 years, and her boyfriend is a snowboard filmer who was responsible for the Whiskey movies. Gary and I don’t even know each other but he was a pretty big influence one point in my life. I can almost hear the beer bottles breaking over heads right now.
Having computer issues so no pics yet.
Friday, October 17, 2008
Greetings from Bali
at 8:52 PM
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