It's my last few days here and I seemed kind of lost. I know that I'm leaving soon so I'm affraid to get wrapped up in planning any sort of adventures. Being sick yesterday didn't help either. It was more like the perfect storm of sickness. I surfed in the AM and when I got back I was feeling sore and had a thumping headache...I'm pretty sure I was dehidrated, my stomach was outta wack so I didn't want to eat, I hadn't slept well in a few days, and it was hot. I finally got my ass off the couch around 4 to get some food which helped. Eric came home and was heading out to surf so I figured that would make me feel better. Just the idea of surf seemed to work, but it was a different story once I strapped my leash on. The sandbar was ripping, and it was like a river moving along the reef, which meant alot of work. After 20 minutes I was thinking about going back in. Next thing I know the decission had been made for me by a wave on the inside of the sandbar. I was about to take one on the head so I tried to dive as deep as I could, but that only ended up being about 2 feet before I hit the bottom. I was always expecting if anything was going to go wrong here it would have been one of the shallow jagged reefs, not the sandbar. It was by far the worse pounding I've had this trip. I think I sucked up over the falls twice by the same wave...if that's even possible. I went back home, crawled onto the couch and watched some shitty movie before falling asleep. I feel much better today, but still haven't had a meal.
My old work switched my phone contract over to me alittle sooner than I imagined and I guess I already have a $200 phone bill. No more using my phone here.
Drex sent me a few pics of the Straits from the other day. I'm soooo stoked for you guys...wearing your wetsuits in cold water and driving hours to surf;) I'll be joining you soon. See you on election day.
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Bali...only a few days left
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
1 comment:
rad ki.
stoked to see your pics.
Post a Comment