The Bukit

The Bukit is where I need to be. Canggu is great and all, but the Bukit is what I came here to surf. I think I may find a cheap place out there for a week when the house clears out again. some Zumies guys are coming in today so I'll see if I still want to hang out.

Yesterday I surfed Bulongan beach and Padang Padang. Padang was nothing like the usual pictures you see in the mags. It was about knee high, but kept me entertained for a few hours in the afternoon. Bulongan was also pretty small- about shoulder high and the waves ending up in knee deep water a few feet from dry reef. Even at shoulder high it was barreling enough for me to squeeze into a couple tubes, but rarely have enough speed to make it out. Scratched my shin up pretty good on the reef.

Canggu was fun this AM. Surfed the main reef until the tide made it too shallow. I've been riding a 6'1" Stretch Quad the last few days and loving it.

Heading to check out some temples today, and doing my best to stay out of the sun.

Still in Bali

It's real hot. Hottest days they've had in years I guess. Lots of sitting in front of a fan during the peaks hours of the day. Surfing only early in the AM and again before sunset.

My last few days of surf have not been as ideal as the first day at Uluwatu. I've been surfing at the local spot down the road from the house called Canggu reef. Pretty strange setup with a few breaks on the reef and a few more sand bars. I've been making alot of late take-offs and getting pitched. It's not nearly as predictable as Ulu's. There's a few other breaks down the road that are a lot easier, but also more of a crowd. Not nearly as pristine as the Bukit.

So the house I'm staying in isn't on the beach as I had thought, but about a mile away, or 5 minutes on my scooter. It's in a district/community called Canggu. Canggu is know for being mostly rice fields and farming, but more recently has become a surfing hot spot. I guess guys like Machado, Taj Burrows, Taylor Steele, Dustin Humpreies, and the Hurley team, have built houses all right here because it's far enough from the circus of Kuta, but just a short drive away. So with the pros being there the local hot shots spend alot of time trying to be seen. The reef is super close to shore so it's perfect for filming too. I've seen some sick turns and big airs being thrown.

We're heading back to the Bukit today and going to stay for a night. It's only a few miles away but takes about an hour to get there because of the roads and traffic. Since we can get a hotel there for next to nothing we figured it would nice to surf this afternoon and tomorrow without having to deal with driving back to the house, Although I am starting to have some fun driving around. Traffic is pretty much a free for all. The roads are painted with broken and solid lines and from what I can tell the broken line means- dodge in and out of traffic using either lane to pass, and the solid line means- dodge in and out of traffic using either lane to pass on a corner or blind hill. I have know Idea why they waste there time painting lines on the road.

Greetings from Bali

Getting here wasn’t worth talking about, just 3 flights for a total of 26 hours. I think I slept for about 4 of them.

Once I landed Erich pretty much had everything covered for me; directions to the house with a number for the driver to call when we got lost, a surfboard, and scooter rental already lined up. He also put me in touch with an old friend Franklin, who was driving out to Uluwatu the next morning. We had a meal down at Echo beach and that was about it for my first day.

Woke up at 5:15 to catch a taxi so I could meet up with Franklin and Simon and catch a ride out to the Bukit and Uluwatu. They were stoked because the swell was calling for 6 to 8ft (Hawaiian). I was scared I might have to sit it out, but luckily it was small than expected. Smaller than what they expected was still some of the largest surf I ever paddled out into. It’s set up pretty much like Salidtia, but on a much grander scale. It was no problem making it out and once there I just hung out on the shoulder to watch for awhile. It was like sitting on a second story balcony and watching guys surf on the sidewalk below. I never caught any waves on the main peak but opted for down the line a little. Catching waves was a lot easier than I ever imagined. It’s like a machine so once you’re in the right position you pretty much just take a few strokes and you’re in. I wasn’t taking off deep so I would get to my feet and have a sec or two before the wave would turn into a wall a few feet overhead and then start to pitch. I only caught 3 or 4 waves and didn’t make a single turn. I pretty much just raced down the line to make each section. I never bounced off the reef so I would consider it a successful mission.

After surfing Franklin dropped me off at the Spacecraft office. I was introduced to Britt, and within 5 minutes of hopping on the back of her scooter to catch a ride home, I decided I was going to tag along with her to Ubud to meet some friends. Ubud is smaller town inland that’s known as being artsy and good food. We hung out there for a a night walking around eating and drinking. Britt’s friend Katie designs bras which totally fascinated me, and her other friend Steve just retired from Subpop as their Promotions director. Both really cool folks.

It ends up that Britt knows Clem and Drex. She designs clothes for OR, has been the announcer for the Baker banked Slolom for something like 8 years, and her boyfriend is a snowboard filmer who was responsible for the Whiskey movies. Gary and I don’t even know each other but he was a pretty big influence one point in my life. I can almost hear the beer bottles breaking over heads right now.

Having computer issues so no pics yet.

Unenjoyment

Spent the weekend visiting Heidi in San Fran. We lucked out with the weather. The forecast was calling for rain, but ended up being sunny most of the time. Did some hiking, eating, drinking, and clubbing...good times.


Just got a call out of the blue from my old companies competitor, they heard I was let go and want me to work for them now. They're trying to create a full-time gig for me, but have some immediate contract stuff I can do while I'm in Bali. I wasn't planning on working while I was there so I agreed to answer emails. At least I'll have a paycheck when I get back.


I leave in a few days and until then Jackie has a list of things do like painting and building a storage shelf. I may try and squeeze a trip to the coast between chores.

Weekend Report

Thanks to the surf I was able to keep the whole job thing off my mind. I ended up making 2 separate trips to the coast with PK, Peterson, and Kev. Waves were a little junky early Saturday, but the afternoon session was glassy and the interval seemed to clean up. Sunday started off with a little bump in the swell and some strong offshore winds that eventually backed off later in the day and made for even better surf than Saturday. My arms are wasted, face is red, and eye's burnt from the glare- this somehow makes me feel good.


Between trips we made it back to the city for the annual Spacecraft All-Star sticker party. Good times as usual with their crew. Didn't hang out too long, but long enough for a few beers and to ask Sara about a place to crash in Bali just in case I do get to take my new found free time and go on a trip. Tickets are about $1200.