Drex...wave of the dayAbout a week without an update...not much to write about. One midweek session that wasn't worth logging in for, and a weekend that seemed promising, but kinda fizzled. Highlight was watching Drex paddle out into some big nasty shit to catch one of the few nice waves that came through...then pay for it. I had a perfect view from the beach to witness one of the biggest sets I've seen out there come in and catch him on the inside. I couldn't help but laugh when I saw him abandon his board and head for the bottom. I have this thing I do...nervous reaction I guess, but I tend to laugh when watch friends get worked by a wave or eat shit on the mountain. They always seem to walk away in one piece, but I'm sure I'll feel like an ass when I'm laughing and someone is really hurt...or not.
Buoys weren't reporting for a few hours last night and prompted me to call off another surf session for today. Didn't want to risk making the drive and having the conditions do a 180 on us. I'm sure it will be nice, but I really have some work to do.
1 comment:
Ki,
What up haven't scene you and drex in a bit. Like the pics. nice move on ebey. Yesterday it was head high on the sets but consistent for a few hours. B
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