Too Much of A Good Thing

Drex vs. Wave

The idea of big waves always sounds so cool until they're breaking on top of you.

Early Saturday morning I rolled out with Kev to meet up with a posse - Clem,Drex,Peterson,Otter,Brian,JR,and Shane. Meeting spot was OS Jetty where Clem had camped out the night before. He had a chance to check it before we got there, but opted to hold off on going out until we showed up. Smart move on his part.

Early morning fog, but could clearly see the surf was big and going to be a challenge. Big enough that I'm safely going to say it was over my head. Waves were breaking out past the jetty and made the inside look like a washing machine. Wind was offshore and made for clean faces. Rip was pretty bad once you got past the reach of the jetty.

For some reason everyone figured it would be ok to try and paddle out a ways down from the jetty. Knowing they would be back in real soon I decided to hang back and take a few pics. Clem and Kev picked off a wave that broke outside and reformed closer in. Drex powered out to the lineup where an average size set snapped his new Stretch quad before he had a chance to really catch a ride. They all came back in.


I hooked Drex up with my other board and we paddled out along the jetty. I jumped on a few big mooshy walls, but never made it out all the way out where the sets were breaking. Catching a wave was a bad mistake since each time you caught a wave it meant paddling back out. A bigger board than a 6'4" would have made all the difference. No one really caught any substantial rides.

Afternoon session was even a bigger joke. I still have sand in my ears from getting slammed on the beach. Good times!